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2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


picked up an engine tonight

its out of a 89 hyundai sonata and it will be swapping places with the 4g63 in the talon.


Tear Down!
over all the engine looked pretty good for 127k miles and looked like it had at least the oil changed every 4-5 thousand or so..... NOT! it was caked in carbon and smelt horrible!

with the valve cover off i found out its a 8 valve version i was hoping for a 16v but i can make this work.

i cut the timing belt as i wont be using the SOHC head for this build, unbolted the manifold braces took the head bolts out then off the head came off;

i pulled the timing covers started pulling everything off the block, turns out this engine hadn't had any major maintenance done at all, the balance belt bearing had exploded and the timing cover was just destroyed, pulled the pistons and the crank, inspected the bearings which were very good considering and it was nice to see some crosshatching still there on the cylinder walls too, from there i cleaned up and called it a night.


2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
parts came in......... a while ago.

picked up the block and crank from shackletts today.

off the shelf 4G63 .080" oversized (87mm) 10:1 pistons, MAP Ultimate billet steel I beam rods with L19 ARP's.

and been doing some fab work.

Making a relocation kit for the Alt and PS

and making another Aluminium Intake Manifold with a Infinity Q45 TB.

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

You just picked up your block from the machine shop, and your ready to build your engine.
The block may look clean, but it is not.
It still has grim and grit from machining in it.

It is up to you as the builder to final wash the block.

cleaning the surfaces ensures proper ring seal and gets out all the micro debris that are stuck on surfaces.

so here is how you get it as clean as you can short of having your own cleaning bay.


1. Mount engine on stand.


2. Disassemble mains and remove oil galley plugs!

3.Gather cleaning supplies. (lint free rags, degreaser, WD-40, Pressurized H2O and Brake Cleaner.)


4. Spray degreaser ALL OVER ENGINE! keep it wet.. and let it soak for 15-20mins again KEEP IT WET!

5. Spray Pressure H2O all over block until clean H2O runs off.

6. IMMEDIATELY spray bearing surfaces, cylinders and head surface dry with compressed air.

7. Spray Brake cleaner over all surfaces.... MAKE SURE you thoroughly spray all the oil galleys, then dry with air.

8. VERY IMPORTANT Spray WD-40 OVER EVERY SURFACE! get it everywhere! get down and dirty with the oil galleys.

9. Take your lint free rags and soak with WD-40.

10. Rub the rag up and down a cylinder, keep flipping it around to get a clean surface and keep doing it for every cylinder. ALWAYS use a clean towel!

after one wipe

do the same for the main surfaces in the block and the corresponding caps, as well as the head surface.

11. Repeat step 10 until no dirt appears on the rags, on every cylinder.

you can now continue assembly with a clean block. REMEMBER TO REPLACE OIL GALLEY PLUGS!

i will be assembling mine another day so i sealed it up.

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
so its silver...

and block and rotating assembly are blueprinted and assembled, man it takes a long time.

i didn't get any pics of blueprinting but i used my bore gauge, telescopic probe's, micrometers, plastigage, feeler gauges and a lot of patience.

check list of things measured.

  1. Crank - Four measurements per journal, main and rods. x1x2,y1,y2
  2. Cylinders - Six measurements. Top Middle and Bottom on both X and Y axis.
  3. Mains - Four measurements per journal, main and rods. x1x2,y1,y2
  4. HG surface of block- checked for flatness. since i will be using a MLS headgasket this is very important.
  5. Rods - big and little end, total weight. Four measurements on the big end. x1x2,y1,y2
  6. Pistons - Four measurements, skirt and head x1x2,y1,y2, weight.

then i started assembling.

crank and mains first.

took the bearing and seated them into the block and caps, lowered the crank, installed my L19 mains and girdle then torqued to 30ftlbs. (isn't a final torque, i will torque to spec after head installed and complete.
i plastigage'd them and all journals came back with .0015" which is right in the middle of the spec range(.001-.002)

next up are pistons.. rings to be exact.
grab everything you will need and go at it... again this takes time.

install the rings one at a time in its corresponding cylinder.
and using a feeler gauge find its gap

i asked for a spec of .017" top ring and .019" bottom. cly 2 is .002" out but shackletts said that it will not affect anything.

next is pistons to the rods.

lube them up and install them be extra careful installing the spiraclips they have some tention when you are installing and can easily shoot across the room.

again after some time all four were done

installing them into the cylinders.
gather all the needed supplies and install the bearings

compress the rings

plastigage the journal and install into the cylinder plasigage the cap and torque to spec.. loosen and inspect.

after some time that was done results written down and proceeded on.

installed my L19 Headstuds, sprayed it down with another coat of WD-40 and sealed her up for another day...

things i have to tackle next,
swapping out springs and cams in the head
service and prep the new OEM oil pump and install ballance shaft eliminator kit into the front case.
complete my intake manifold
start fabrication of oil pan.

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
the build is coming along nicely and should take a big step forward this weekend meanwhile here's what has happened;

starting with the block i assembled the new OEM front case and oil pump

installed the new stubby shaft and measured the new oil gears clearance, it was right at the tightest tolerance allowed so that's good

i packed the pump with wheel bearing grease and installed it onto the case.
then i capped the Balance shaft opening with a freeze plug and JB welded it in place.

next i tackled my head.
i disassembled it as i will be replacing all the parts.

i found bearing material in the lifters so i will need to thoroughly clean the lifters and oil galleys later on.
i took the head to work to patch a couple of things
up first is whats called "oil mod #1" in the DSM world.
the mod is to open up the oil feed to the head so that oil pressure flows smoothly.

unfortunately i have no after picture.

i also had to fix a exhaust stud hole.

and after welding

and because i deleted my EGR valve i went ahead and welded the EGR port closed on the head so that when i up the boost i don't blow my gasket out.

i also welded shut unused ports on the thermostat housing, and i made a very easy valve spring compressor, the "grabber" and "clamp" types were pointless in doing anything.

assembled the timing side of the block with a new OEM water pump and just picked up the head from shackletts tonight,

head will be cleaned and assembled tomorrow, new valves, springs, lifters cams and gears to go in.

continued fab up the intake manifold.

cutting it close with a jigsaw then coming back over it with a router. i had to go VERY slow otherwise the blades/bits would brake. its 4027alu sheet which is a 6061 alloy making it very hard to machine.. but i got it done! lol

ordered some tubing for it and started cutting the Throttle body flange.

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
head came back from shackletts.

milled flange's and decked the block surface for a MLS HG.

after cleaning it all up i lapped my new SS valves.

SS black nitrate coated chrome tipped valves, GSC stage 3 springs/titanium retainers which are good to 13,000rpm on 280' cams.

new viton valve seals

using my tool things went really quickly.

i them chased all the threads on the head.

you can see the oil port Mod #1 here in this pic.

and got ready to install the head to the block.
new HG, Permatorque MLS and L19 headstuds.

to which i added some copper spray for good measure and installed over the L19 bolts.

mounted and torqued down.

de-primed the lifters,

then the camshafts went in (crower 280's and AEM gears , ARP bolts)


2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
continued work on the IM

runners and flange getting tacked together

even with all those clamps it still warped.

version 1 - tryed to make someting different/elaborate but was WAY too big measureing right at 800CI of volume, which is 13litres.

version 2 - something a little more simple. and alot smaller at 4.9l i also rounded off the runner ends into a kinda velocity stack.

welded a -12an fitting onto my new OEM oil pan for the turbo drain.

welded all the holes on the VC shut and welded a -12an fitting to the PCV/catch can as well as shaved it ready for powdercoating

removed the baffle and cleaned out all the crud from the inside,

and welded a new set of lazer cut baffles in

also had to get rid of PS so i remade my Alt brackets

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
i will be going with a bigger turbo eventually so i have taken the time to build a new double pump hangar, still working on it for the moment, i need to find some sealed electrical pass-throughs for the sensors and power,

i will probably run two Walbro 255 high pressure pumps for the time being since i have four just laying around atm, contemplating whether to run them of a single power source of power each pump individually.


2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
engine timed, degreed, and plumbed, almost ready to drop in.

Timing it was a bitch as i had to fabricate the tensioning system since the block is 6mm higher than a 4G63 and i am using a 4G63 Kevlar belt.
I also had my HX35 sent out and had it rebuilt and rebalanced, it was there and back in just over a week.

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
mocked the intake and rebuilt the Q45 TB, and kept the cruise and FIAC off.

had shackletts weld a tab or the throttle cable, since i have no access to a welder anymore.

polished the intake

and finally assembled

then installed the FIC 1650cc bluemax injectors and FIC rail.

stripping the harness to relocate the alt connectors and bypass the power steering rack is all thats left.

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
brief update....

700 miles on the engine.

oil has been changed at
20 miles
50 miles
100 miles
250 miles - Valve cover removed and L19 retorqued
500 miles - oil pan removed and mains/rods retorqued

at 700 miles - New Tyres.

so aside from that its running great! running 15psi on the HX35 and logging 420WHP @34lbs/min airflow on DSMlink.

thinking of selling it and getting a S2k in the near future.


328 Posts
Why the fuck have you changed the oil 6 times in 700 miles...that is totally unnecessary.
the oil smelt like Ethanol the first three, so didn't want the oil to deteriorate and screw up the fresh engine, i haven't changed it at 700 its still the 500 mile in it, i should have made it clearer the 700 mile was just tyres.
OK, so 5 times. Still unnecessary.

What did you use for break-in oil? Because every regular oil (readily available - on the shelf) out there has friction modifiers which make the whole break-in process take longer and can make break-in more unpredictable.

Really like your intake manifold :biggthumpup:

2,527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hyundai G4CS block (2.4l 6bolt) 11:1 compression.
OEM Uncut Crank balanced to 13k RPM within .25gram
Wiseco 1400HD 10:1 pistons, chrome-moly rings. 22mm wrist pins
MAP Ultimate Duty Billet I beam rods.
Kiggly racing main girdle
ARP L19 main and rod bolts
ACL main and rod bearings
MAP L19 head bolts
MAP SS High Performance black nitride coated valves, Intake and Exhaust
GSC Titanium Beehive Springs, seats and Retainers, 11,000+RPM capable springs
Crower 280 cams
AEM adjustable cam gears
ARP cam bolts
Felpro Permatorque MLS Headgasket
Forged Performance cast exhaust manifold
Holset HX35w turbo with BEP .53ar hotside housing
-12an turbo oil drain, -12an fitting welded to oil pan
-4an braided SS turbo feed line with restrictor
MAP Stainless Steel o2 housing with external dump 44mm vband wastegate
Precision Turbo 44mm vband Wastegate and dump tube
Fluidampr Harmonic balancer
ARP crank bolt
Balance shaft delete
New OEM Forward facing oil filter housing
New OEM front case and Oil pump New OEM drive gears
New - Knock, Cam Angle, O2, Water Temp, Oil Pressure sensors.
ACT flywheel
ACT 2900 pressure plate with 6 puck sprung clutch disc
New OEM Clutch slave cylinder
New Gates Kevlar timing belt, OEM Tensioner and Components
New OEM Tensioner Bracket
Jays racing Alt Relocation kit
160amp alternator
FIC Bluemax 1650cc injectors
FIC Billet and anodized Fuel Rail
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